Web Features – Textile World https://www.textileworld.com Tue, 15 Oct 2024 18:19:43 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.7 Promote Greener Fashion Choices, Explore The Power of Bluesign® With SGS https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2024/10/promote-greener-fashion-choices-explore-the-power-of-bluesign-with-sgs/ Tue, 15 Oct 2024 15:26:56 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=99344
Consumers can easily identify the bluesign® PRODUCT label

TW Special Report

With sustainability now the primary driver in all consumer product markets, SGS — a testing, inspection and certification company — examines the demand for sustainable fashion and the importance of certifications like the bluesign® PRODUCT label for combating greenwashing.

In the global fashion industry, projections indicate that the sustainable segment is expected to grow steadily over the next few years, with a 1.4 percentage point increase between 2023 and 2026.1 This growth is partially driven by younger generations who define themselves as environmentally conscious and are reaching economic maturity.

Barriers to sustainability

Choosing a product that is truly sustainable can be a challenge for consumers. Markets are flooded with products that claim environmental credentials, but how many of these claims can be trusted?

In a 2022 survey of US consumers, 54% stated they found it confusing to identify which fashion items were environmentally friendly, with only 5% strongly disagreeing and saying they felt it was easy.2 Part of the difficulty is that many consumer product markets are now blighted by ‘greenwashing’, defined by the European Union as, “the practice of giving a false impression of the environmental impact or benefits of a product, which can mislead consumers.”3

The proliferation of claims and labels can make it challenging for the eco-conscious consumer to find a product that genuinely meets their requirements. What they need is reliable certification, provided by a trusted and independent verifier, that confirms a product meets clearly defined standards for sustainability.

bluesign® PRODUCT

The bluesign PRODUCT label provides consumers with assurance that the product they buy adheres to the highest safety standards, meets minimum requirements for environmental and human impact, and is made using responsibly sourced materials. This label can be applied to:

  • Clothing, including denimwear;
  • Home textiles, excluding carpets and textile wall coverings;
  • Equipment – tents, luggage, etc.; and
  • Footwear, excluding brown shoes.

Certification is achieved following a rigorous assessment of the product and its supply chain, evaluating factors such as energy, water and chemical consumption, CO2 emissions and waste generation. Supply chain impact data for these parameters is collected from brands, materials manufacturers and chemical suppliers, providing a clear overview of the environmental performance of the inputs, facility and product.

The criteria for bluesign® PRODUCT certification are complex, building confidence in the assessment process and label. Certified apparel must meet the following requirements:

  • Possess a textile character;
  • At least 90 percent of the fabric used in the apparel must be bluesign APPROVED;
  • At least 30 percent of the accessories used in the apparel must be bluesign APPROVED (rising to 40 percent from 2027);
  • All components (fabrics or accessories) not bluesign APPROVED must be supplied by a qualified supplier and must meet the brand’s restricted substances list (RSL); and
  • If an additional claim is applicable for the certified apparel (e.g. organic cotton), third-party certification must be available.

In addition, there are specific requirements for denim manufacturers regarding the use of indigo dyes, laundry practices and sandblasting. To be certified as a bluesign® PRODUCT, denim products must meet the following criteria:

  • Outer fabric must be at least 90 percent denim;
  • 100 percent of the denim fabric must be bluesign APPROVED;
  • 90 percent of textiles must be bluesign APPROVED (rising to 40 percent from 2027);
  • All components (fabrics or accessories) not bluesign APPROVED must be supplied by a qualified supplier and must meet the brand’s restricted substances list (RSL);
  • Prohibited practices include chlorine bleaching, pumice stonewashing, sandblasting, and the use of potassium permanganate (PP) and powder-based enzymes;
  • If an additional claim is applicable for the certified apparel (e.g. organic cotton), third-party certification must be available

In the case of footwear, alongside the requirements for additional claims and non bluesign APPROVED components, certification demands that 90 percent (by area) of skin contact materials (textile upper, lining and insole), midsole and outsole, and at least 30 percent of total accessories, must be bluesign APPROVED.

Consumer Benefits

Purchasing a bluesign PRODUCT provides consumers with assurance that the product meets exacting standards for environmental impact reduction and better working conditions in the supply chain. It guarantees transparency and trustworthiness in an era when greenwashing is a significant issue.

Consumers can easily identify the bluesign PRODUCT label, which can be found as a hangtag, sewn-in label or printed on the garment and/or packaging. They can also shop for bluesign PRODUCTs via the bluesign SHOP.

SGS & bluesign

SGS joined forces with bluesign in 2008 to develop its services and strengthen the independent bluesign SYSTEM solution. From fiber to finished product, bluesign partners with brands, manufacturers and chemical suppliers to promote safer workplaces and textile products that are less impactful on the environment and people.


References:

1 Global: sustainable apparel revenue share 2013-2026 | Statista

2 Confusion over sustainability of clothes U.S. 2022 | Statista

3 Stopping greenwashing: how the EU regulates green claims | Topics | European Parliament (europa.eu)


October 15, 2024

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SGS On Why Rigorous Testing Matters For Antiviral Products https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2024/10/sgs-on-why-rigorous-testing-matters-for-antiviral-products/ Tue, 15 Oct 2024 14:10:10 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=99341
Trust in antiviral claims can only exist if the claim is backed by rigorous testing.

By Jack Yuen

SGS — a testing, inspection and certification company — works with manufacturers and suppliers of disinfectants, antiseptics, textiles, leather goods, plastics and furniture materials to help them assess the virucidal qualities of their products.

The 2020 COVID-19 pandemic brought about significant changes in the way we live and deepened our understanding of viruses. With the pandemic thankfully fading into the past, what can manufacturers do to ensure antiviral products continue to protect consumers?

Disease spread can be rapid in an interconnected world, crossing borders and significantly impacting global health and economies. Preventing virus transmission is difficult because disease can spread via several different vectors — aerosol, droplet, contact with a contaminated surface, etc. Alongside vaccination and the proper use of personal protective equipment (PPE), effective utilization of hygiene products, such as disinfectants, antiseptics and antiviral surfaces in public spaces, is crucial for reducing disease transmission.

Heightened Public Awareness

Public awareness of how easily viruses can spread via everyday items was enhanced during the pandemic. Personal experience meant consumers were suddenly aware of the real risks associated with viruses and the fact some pathogens can linger for extended periods on surfaces like office doors, kitchen countertops, mobile phones and clothing. This led to greater demand for products with proven antiviral properties.

Antiviral Testing

Trust in antiviral claims can only exist if the claim is backed by rigorous testing. Several antiviral efficacy standards exist enabling manufacturers to verify the claims they make relating to antiviral properties. However, not all standards apply to all products and so manufacturers are advised to work with expert testing laboratories to select the appropriate internationally recognized standard for their product.

Useful testing standards include:

  • Disinfectants and antiseptics: EN 14476 assesses virucidal activity against common viruses like Vaccinia virus, Human adenovirus 5, Human poliovirus type 1, and Murine norovirus strain S99 Berlin. Viruses are incubated on test samples under specific conditions set by the manufacturer and standard, such as contact time and temperature
  • Textiles: ISO 18184:2019 evaluates the antiviral activity of textiles against viruses like H1N1, H3N2 and Feline calicivirus. Virus particles are applied to textile samples and reference fabrics, incubated, and the remaining viral load is quantified to determine efficacy
  • Plastics and non-porous materials: ISO 21702:2019 is used to assess the virus-stopping abilities of plastics and other non-porous materials. The testing process is similar to ISO 18184

These tests allow manufacturers to confirm the virucidal efficiency of their products, which is especially important when items are used by multiple people and the risk of pathogen spread is increased.

Additional Benefits

For manufacturers, ensuring product effectiveness is paramount. However, applying these stringent test methods to relevant consumer products offers additional advantages. As consumers become more aware of the risks of viral transmission via surfaces, products that demonstrate proven efficacy will gain greater consumer trust and help build a brand’s reputation. Testing also reduces liability and enables market differentiation.

SGS Solutions

Delivered through a global network of state-of-the-art laboratories, SGS’s testing solutions cover the full range of standards, including EN 14476, ISO 18184 and ISO 21702. Whatever the consumer product, SGS services help to ensure goods are safe, high-performing and market ready.


Jack Yuen

Editor’s Note: Jack Yuen is Health & Nutrition Sustainability Development deputy director at SGS. Geneva.


October 15, 2024

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How Papertale’s Sustainable Digital Twins Are Putting People In The Picture https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/knitting-apparel/2024/10/papertales-transformative-technology-is-putting-people-in-the-picture/ Thu, 10 Oct 2024 16:17:43 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=99198 TW Special Report

A digital twin supply chain recently was established by Sweden-based start-up PaperTale for Sail Racing — a brand well known for its durable and long-lasting performance garments for the marine industry.

The collaboration is further highlighted as the primary case study in a just-released white paper prepared by Deloitte, as a guide to how companies could most effectively prepare for the European Commission’s upcoming Digital Product Passport (DPP) and other related legislation.

Complex Network

The PaperTale system for Sail Racing fully maps a complex network, beginning with farmers in Australia, moving to garment workers in Pakistan and finally reaching consumers in Scandinavia.

It incorporates data collection from the three countries using NFC tags and blockchain technology to provide detailed supply chain insights and ensure regulatory compliance for the brand.

“Our system captures the supply chain of a product from cradle to grave, in real-time,” said company Founder Bilal Bhatti. “By integrating it into existing planning and management systems, factories and brands can gather and verify the flow of material and their social and environmental data in real-time. Data is added to a public blockchain so it is extremely hard to tamper with, further increasing trust. When a product is finalized, consumers can scan an NFC tag or QR-code to view the entire journey a product has traveled, which craftsmen were involved in the production, and if they have been paid fairly.”

Personalization

Introducing the usually anonymous factory workers responsible for each individual garment to the person buying it is what really sets PaperTale apart from other tracking systems — a next level of personalization that will make a valuable contribution to raising the debate on the true cost of textiles.

“This technology is a game-changer in that we provide verified information about the social aspects of the manufacturing process and not just information about the components of the garment,” Bhatti said. “We need products and processes to be much more connected with people, especially in such a complex supply chain where a high percentage of the work is carried out by contract workers who are unregistered and often exploited.

“When the entire product journey is visible using real-time and verified data, higher trust is created all the way from factories to consumers. Our system makes it possible to start the dialogue on the cost of sustainability, paving the way to increase incentives that result in proper wages, contracts and workplace safety. In respect of environmental sustainability, real-time data makes real-time measurement possible, which will also stimulate brands and factories to reduce emissions, water usage and pollution.”

Benchmarks

The new Deloitte white paper, Adopting Blockchain-based E-Liability ESG reporting to comply with the upcoming CSRD regulation, confirms that PaperTale’s project with Sail Racing sets new benchmarks for sustainability and compliance. The paper can be accessed here: https://www2.deloitte.com/dk/da/pages/supply-chain-and-network-operations/adopting-blockchain-based-e-liability-esg-reporting.html

“Crucial data collected during the project enabled the development of a Digital Product Passport (DPP) and met various regulatory reporting needs,” noted lead author Henrik Knak, a supply chain specialist and director at Deloitte. “As the industry evolves, however, there is a risk of DPPs becoming mere compliance reports, but the project emphasizes the importance of focusing on extending product lifespans, improving decision-making based on impacts and promoting circularity.

“The Sail Racing case illustrates how a holistic approach can extend beyond DPPs to ensure robust traceability, accountability and social and governance responsibility across supply chains.”

While much is set still being finalized, the DPP — as well as the European Commission’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) — are fast approaching.

“This makes the insights from Deloitte’s white paper particularly timely and companies need to start preparing now, rather than risking non-compliance later,” Bhatti said. “We are extremely pleased that Deloitte has chosen our solution as its primary case study as we continue to refine our technology for advanced and well-balanced supply chain transparency and compliance.”

October 10, 2024

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ETV Looking To The Future With Monforts https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/supplier-notes/2024/09/etv-looking-to-the-future-with-monforts/ Tue, 10 Sep 2024 21:23:21 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=98437
Pictured during her visit to ETV is Germany’s Economics and Climate Protection Minister Mona Neubaur (third from left), with members of the ETV and Monforts management teams, including Dirk Tunney (far left) and Gunnar Meyer (far right). Image courtesy ETV.

TW Special Report

At a time when European commission finishers are finding it increasingly difficult to operate due to extremely high overheads, ETV, based in Gescher, Germany, is going from strength to strength — and alert to new opportunities going forward.

Founded in 1950, the privately held company is currently installing a third Monforts Montex 8500 finishing range with a working width of 3.2 meters, fully equipped with a Montex®Coat coating unit, an EcoBooster heat recovery unit, crash calender and computer-controlled winders and unwinders.

Longevity

For ETV managing director Dirk Tunney, the company’s longevity is in part due to a timely move away from traditional textile applications such as clothing and home textiles 25 years ago, to focus on adding value and functionality to technical textiles, films and membranes.

“The large discounters now dominate the procurement markets, particularly in the home textiles sector,” he says. “Stationary retail hardly exists anymore and the market is characterized by the price structure of cheap imports from non-European countries.”

Since repositioning itself in 1999, ETV has grown into a powerhouse in its selected fields, dyeing and finishing around 1,500 tons of yarn and 1.6 million linear meters of fabric each year. In addition, the company annually prints around 4 million linear meters of fabrics, foils and membranes, along with coating up to 40 million linear meters of fabrics and nonwovens.

ETV was also early in addressing the need for sustainable processes with a thermal exhaust air aftertreatment unit, a printing paste recycling station and the use of 100-percent recycled industrial water as a result of its own in-house water and sewage treatment plant.

Energy costs

Escalating energy costs in Germany, however, have understandably been a cause for concern for the company.

“Up to and including 2020, our energy expenditure was less than 10 percent of our total overheads which ensured we were competitive on the market, but at their peak in 2022, gas prices in Germany had increased tenfold and electricity prices increased fivefold,” Tunney said. “Our industry today has to live with electricity prices that are approximately twice as high and gas prices that are approximately three-and-a-half times higher than before 2021. In the future, we are assuming a level of 12 to 13 percent so we are talking about additional expenditure of up to 400,000 euros depending on our future product production program, which as a contract processor we have only a limited influence on.

“Energy is certainly no longer cheap in Germany and we have moved from being an exporter of electricity to an importer and will no longer be able to supply ourselves in the future if we don`t change anything. It’s worrying that without our European neighbors our lights would sometimes go out.”

Industry standard

Monforts Montex tenters are now industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing many advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.

The Monforts Eco Booster, integrated into the chamber design of ETV’s Montex tenter, is a single heat recovery system with automatic cleaning that can further save up to 35 percent in energy costs. The Eco Booster consumes only minimal amounts of water during the cleaning cycle and the entire process is controlled and monitored automatically.

The Montex Coat serves a very diverse number of markets and enables full coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments to be carried out. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be accommodated with this system. In addition, the Montex Coat provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

“We certainly anticipate energy savings in addition to increased productivity and process reliability with this latest line and in addition, we will be working with Monforts on alternative energy options,” Tunney said.

Green hydrogen

Monforts is currently leading a consortium of industrial partners and universities in the three-year WasserSTOFF project, launched in November 2022, to explore all aspects of this fast-rising new industrial energy option.

The target of the government-funded project is to establish to what extent hydrogen can be used in the future as an alternative heating source for textile finishing processes. This will first involve tests on laboratory equipment together with associated partners and the results will then be transferred to a tenter frame at the Monforts Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Germany.

“Green hydrogen’s potential as a clean fuel source is tremendous, but there is much we need to explore when considering its use in the textile finishing processes carried out globally on our tenter dryers and other machines,” says Monforts Managing Director Gunnar Meyer. “Everybody knows that textile finishing is a high energy consuming process and to make the processes more efficient, we already offer several solutions, but as a technology leader we are also rising to the challenge of exploring alternative heating options to be ready for the future.”

ETV’s relative proximity to the Monforts headquarters in Mönchengladbach makes it an ideal site for the WasserSTOFF project.

“The project for a hydrogen-powered coating tenter frame is very suitable for our region,” Tunney said. “Germany’s textile industry has a long tradition and with more than 1,400 companies, is not unimportant to the country, but without support from politics, both ideologically and financially, something like this cannot be done.

“If we want decarbonization, paths must be identified and funds made available. We absolutely have to remain open to technology in order to position ourselves in the best possible way. Otherwise it will result in deindustrialization, which none of us want. We look forward to a closer collaboration with Monforts and its project partners going forward.”

On September 6 this year, Germany’s Economics and Climate Protection Minister Mona Neubaur visited ETV to get a first-hand view of how the textile industry is rapidly adapting to a changing landscape.

“The future of German industry will be decided in North Rhine-Westphalia,” she said. “This requires courageous companies to move forward. Innovative ideas strengthen our competitiveness and make a significant contribution to becoming the first climate-neutral industrial region in Europe. Green hydrogen will play an important role in this and I am very pleased that through companies like ETV and Monforts and their partners, we are now moving quickly from preparation to action.”

September 10, 2024

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Luxinar’s Textile Processing Solutions For The Fashion, Technical Textile And Automotive Industries https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/supplier-notes/2024/08/luxinars-textile-processing-solutions-for-the-fashion-technical-textile-and-automotive-industries/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 23:07:20 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=97738
Using Luxinar’s lasers, customized suits and garments can be created quickly and cost effectively

By Dr. Louise May

Since its invention in the United States in 1964, the carbon dioxide (CO₂) laser has been widely used in industry, mainly for cutting and welding metals, and since the 1970s, for medical applications in areas such as dentistry, and facial surgery. But what is perhaps less well known is the crucial role that CO₂ laser technology has played in processing textiles and technical fabrics. This article looks at how Luxinar’s CO₂ laser sources are helping to revolutionize textile and fabric processing for the fashion, technical textile, and automotive industries.

CO₂ Laser Cutting Of Textiles  

A CO₂ laser emits a high-powered infrared beam of intense heat which can vaporize and thus cut through a wide range of fabrics including both natural and synthetic materials —cotton, polyester, silk, lace, neoprene, felt, nylon, fleece, as well as thicker fabrics such as leather and canvas.

Compared with traditional mechanical or manual cutting, CO₂ laser cutting is much faster, more precise and reduces waste as parts can be cut very close together. In addition, it produces clean-cut edges that require minimal post-processing — and as it’s a non-contact process there’s no tool wear, no distortion or stretching of fabric during cutting.
With synthetic fabrics, the edges are sealed, which prevents fraying; and although natural fibers are prone to discoloration, this can usually be controlled with a careful choice of laser parameters. These advantages add up to faster and more consistent processes that are easily automated with design changes quick and easy to implement, thereby reducing downtime and time to market.

Fashion

Garment production: In recent years, laser cutting has helped to streamline garment production across the industry. Cutting room processes can now be fully automated, with the speed and efficiency minimizing both downtime and fabric waste. Additionally, laser cutting is flexible, allowing designs to be created and modified with ease enabling manufacturers to keep up with rapidly changing fashions. One-off, customized and made-to-measure garments have become much easier and more cost-effective to produce, men’s suits being a prime example. The client’s measurements are sent to a production facility, where a CAD system designs the pattern, and a laser cuts out the fabric. The finished suit is delivered to the client within weeks, at a fraction of the cost of a traditionally tailored garment.

Luxinar’s Solutions For Textile And Fabric Cutting 

A good choice for textile cutting is Luxinar’s SR series of sealed CO₂ lasers. They come in three wavelengths: 10.6, 10.25, and 9.3µm, and are integrated with field replaceable RF power supplies. The minimum shipment power is 20-percent higher than rated power and this series can be easily integrated into laser-based processing machines.

(left to right): 150W SR 10i, 175W SR 15i and 250W SR 25i
Also available is Luxinar’s SCX 35, a versatile 350W sealed CO₂ laser source that’s an ideal choice for cutting and airbag processing. It comes in 10.6µm, 10.25µm, and 9.3µm wavelengths, has a separate RF power supply for flexible integration, and is designed for robotic applications and integration into industrial processing systems with scanners or other beam guidance components.

Laser Marking  

Luxinar laser processing of leather is fast and flexible

In addition to cutting, CO₂ laser technology can be used for marking where only the surface of the fabric is processed. In the case of leather production, lasers are involved from the very beginning to mark traceability codes on the animal hides prior to tanning. Lasers are also used to cut processed leather at high speeds, and intricate designs can be created with ease. The laser produces a good finish, minimizes waste and offers tremendous flexibility. Lasers can be used for texturing as well as cutting, removing the surface of the leather to create a pattern or design. This may be purely decorative, or it may be functional — for example texturing leather for non-slip shoe soles.

Luxinar laser marking of buttons is a clean and flexible process

In the same way, lasers can be used to mark decorative or functional logos, patterns, or manufacturer’s details, on buttons used in garment production.

Luxinar’s Solutions For Button And Leather Marking 

Luxinar’s 125W CO₂ laser marking systems, the MULTISCAN® HE and MULTISCAN® VS, offer an inkless method of applying alphanumeric text, QR codes, 2D and traditional barcodes, as well as complex graphics to leather, wood, plastic and a wide variety of other materials. The flexible software allows intelligent data to be placed anywhere within the specified scan area, and the system can mark stationary objects or moving products which need to be coded on the fly. Both models are available in 10.6µm, 10.25µm and 9.3µ wavelengths and can be easily integrated into existing production lines.

Luxinar 125W CO₂ laser marking systems

Engraving

Luxinar laser engraving of T-shirt heat transfers is a time-saving process

Lasers are also used for engraving, i.e., controlled cutting to a depth. This process can be used to create designs on heat transfer film that are used to decorate T-shirts and other fabric garments. In this case, the laser is not used directly on the garment itself. Instead, the laser engraves a type of laser-friendly transfer film, removing excess material and leaving only the required design intact. The design is then transferred to the garment using a heat transfer press. The advantage of fully engraving the film is that the transfer doesn’t require “weeding” before use — the time-consuming process of removing small pieces of waste material from the design, which significantly reduces the total process time.

A 450W laser removing indigo dye pigment from denim jeans to create a vintage look. Image courtesy of Jeanologia

Designer Denim  

The first use of CO₂ lasers for marking textiles was in the mid-1990s, when Icon, a small startup in Florida, patented a laser-based color-fading process for dyed denim garments and fabrics. The process was based on the vaporization of indigo dye using high-power CO₂ lasers. The aim was to create a retro look — a symbol of youth and rebellion as epitomized by a Levis advertisement in the late 1980s. In this ad, model and musician Nick Kamen put rocks in a laundrette washing machine and undressed to his boxer shorts to perform some DIY stonewashing/fading on his 501 jeans. Sales skyrocketed and set a retro fashion tone for denim jeans which is still with us today.

In 1998, Icon licensed the process to Levi Strauss who installed high-power denim-marking systems in their flagship stores in San Francisco and London. Until then, stonewashing and sandblasting were the only methods to simulate the look of a well-worn pair of jeans — methods which created massive environmental damage as they involved the discharges of millions of liters of contaminated water and the use of harmful chemicals.

Comparison between laser and mechanical abrasions/fading. Source: Textile Today

Since the early 2000s, companies like Luxinar have done much to advance the technology by providing state-of-the-art CO₂ lasers  to the world’s major suppliers to the denim jean industry. A CO₂ laser finishing system typically involves 4 stages:

  1. a digital image of the jeans is created;
  2. the image is overlaid with the desired features of a vintage pair to form a greyscale design;
  3. the greyscale design is loaded into the laser computer;
  4. the laser transfers the greyscale design to the jeans by varying the intensity of the focused laser beam as it scans rapidly across the garment.

A 450-1000W laser beam then sweeps across the jeans and selectively removes the indigo dye pigment from the denim by heating it to a temperature of 600°C in a process called sublimation. The same laser can be used to introduce rips, abrasions, various wash effects and simulated creases, known as “cat’s whiskers”.

As Cherry Healey quipped in a 2023 BBC documentary on jeans manufacturing1 “Using a laser on jeans seems more James Bond than Bond Street”. This may be true, but the fact remains that compared with manual methods, CO2 laser processing can produce an equally good finish without damaging the texture or compromising the strength of the fabric. And not only is the process more sustainable and eco-friendly — it also enables a dramatic increase in productivity as with laser processing the effects of years of wear are created in seconds compared with 20 minutes for manual methods.

Luxinar’s Solutions For Denim Applications

A popular choice for denim applications is Luxinar’s OEM series of sealed CO₂ lasers, which range in power from 450W to 1000W and come in 10.6, 10.25, and 9.3µm wavelengths.

Denim marking requires the laser parameters such as power, mode, wavelength, and polarization, to be very stable. For this reason, Luxinar’s lasers incorporate unique cavity and electrode designs to ensure the required level of stability and pulse-to-pulse consistency. Additionally, they have a high quality, round, symmetrical beam for high processing speeds and a short optical pulse with high peak power, which combine to ensure optimum process quality and minimise the heat-affected zone.

Luxinar sealed CO₂ laser sources for denim applications: OEM series

As with the SR series, our sealed OEM CO₂ laser sources are based on the well-proven slab principle, with no need for gas recirculation equipment such as vacuum pumps or pressure control systems. As gas exchange is unnecessary before 20,000 operational hours, the running, maintenance, and service costs of our lasers are minimal — resulting in a long lifetime and trouble-free operation throughout.

Luxinar lasers can cut a variety of textiles with ease and precision

Technical Textiles

Lasers are also advantageous for the cutting of carpets, curtains and sails as well as thermal insulation material, medical gauze, filter material, geotextile membrane, and Kevlar-reinforced textiles.

Cutting profiles for these materials can be complex and highly detailed, and consistency of quality is of paramount importance. By cutting technical textiles with lasers, the edges of the fabric are sealed, which prevents fraying, eliminates the need for further finishing and allows easier handling of the cut pieces.  As with cutting textiles for garment production, complex shapes can be cut out with ease and precision, the process is both repeatable and adaptable and design changes are easy and quick to implement. Depending on the type of textile, Luxinar’s recommended solutions for cutting technical textiles include the SR series (10i ,15i and 25i); the SCX 35, and OEM series 45iX and 65iX.

Luxinar’s lasers cut automotive textiles cleanly

Automotive

Laser cutting is now also commonplace in the automotive industry. Synthetic fabrics can be cut cleanly, and the laser melts and seals the edge of the material so that it doesn’t fray during the subsequent stitching and assembly. Both real and synthetic leather can be cut for car upholstery in the same way. The fabric coverings on the interior pillars of modern vehicles are frequently finished by laser. Fabric is bonded to these plastic parts during the moulding process, in a 5-axis robotic process, with the cutting head following the contours of the part and trimming the fabric with precision. Depending on the type of textile, Luxinar’s recommended solutions for textile cutting for automotive applications include the SR series (10i ,15i and 25i); the SCX 35, and OEM series 45iX and 65iX.

Trimming of airbag materials by Luxinar’s lasers is efficient and reliable

Airbag processing: Airbag materials are usually made from densely woven nylon or polyester fibres and are often silicone coated to obtain the desired air permeability. Airbags may be flat woven, where the bag is made up of several fabric pieces stitched together or one piece woven (OPW), where the structure of the airbag is fully formed on the loom. Both types require trimming, for which a CO₂ laser is the ideal tool.

CO₂ lasers can also be used to score lines in the material of the car dashboard and door skins, selectively weakening the structure so that a flap breaks open to release the airbag in the event of a collision. This laser scoring must be performed to extremely tight tolerances and is implemented on the reverse side of the interior panels, so there is no aesthetic impact visible to the occupants of the vehicle. Luxinar’s recommended solutions for air bag processing are the SCX 35, OEM 65iX and OEM 100iX.

Future Outlook

The outlook for the laser processing of textiles and fabrics is promising. According to a recent market report2, the fabric cutting machine market will be worth $429.5 million by the end of 2024, rising to $644.4 million by 2034 with the laser cutting segment accounting for around 42 percent of the market. Laser cutting is expected to grow exponentially during this period due to the inherent advantages of lasers sources over traditional mechanical and manual processing methods. As we have seen, these include faster processing, greater precision, a reduction in waste, enhanced quality control, and a reduction in downtime and time to market.

The future for laser denim processing is also positive with the global market for denim jeans projected to rise from $64.5 billion in 2022 to $95.2 billion by 20303. Along with this growth in sales will be an increase in demand for laser marking driven by the trend towards greater customization and exclusivity, as well as the advantages of being faster, more eco-friendly, and conducive to greater productivity.

We are also likely to see an increase in the use of innovative technical fabrics based on recycled plastics, cellulose, vegetal fibers and other bio-fabrics. These materials will require a new generation of consistent and reliable laser performance. But whatever the future may bring, Luxinar’s expertise and experience in developing innovative CO₂ laser source technology, make us well placed to meet any new challenges and remain a leading provider of laser sources to the denim and textile industry.

References 
1. https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001v63x/inside-the-factory-series-8-3-jeans 
2. Future Market Insights: Fabric Cutting Machine Market 
3. Research & Markets: Global Denim Jeans Strategic Business Report 2023 

Editor’s Note: Dr. Louise May is senior applications engineer, Luxinar Ltd., England.
 
August 15, 2024

 

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Safeguarding Quality For Textile And Apparel Imports From The “Source” https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2024/08/safeguarding-quality-for-textile-and-apparel-imports-from-the-source/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 20:42:15 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=97740 Ethical and compliant work environments are key to the textile and apparel industries.

By Pierre-Nicolas Disser

Within the textile and apparel industries, where fabrics imports and exports cross all borders to meet ever-changing industry trends and consumer needs, ensuring the safety and quality of these materials has never been more important.

Whether you’re a manufacturer, global brand, sourcing and procurement professional or quality control company woven into the fabric of this industry, developing a reliable line of product that is compliant with safety and performance standards is vital to not only your business, but the sustainability of our industry; it safeguards consumers while nurturing brand growth and builds a culture of responsibility for the textile manufacturing landscape.

Regulatory bodies, including the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Customs and Border Protection (CBP) play pivotal roles in upholding standards for imported consumer goods.

For textile and apparel importers, compliance with these standards is not just a legal obligation but a moral imperative — a commitment to the safety and satisfaction of end-users.

However, by prioritizing the safety and well-being of workers first, importers contribute to the creation of ethical supply chains where dignity and fairness are upheld. The steps taken by compliant factories to exceed those regulations support safe working environments and workforces that take pride in their craft.

A study from the University of Southern California* reinforces the profound links between compliance, worker satisfaction, and product quality. When supply chain employees feel valued and protected, they invest themselves wholeheartedly in their work. Longevity within a company fosters experience and expertise, enhancing the overall quality of products and bolstering the reputation of the brand.

Utilizing these same concepts, auditors can also be contracted to review employee safety and labor on-site. This proactive approach helps minimize costly ethical and labor issues, further protecting both brand reputation and the health and safety of workers and maintaining industry integrity throughout the textiles supply chain.

Testing and inspections play a vital role by ensuring product quality, compliance with regulations and adherence to specific brand guidelines. Third-party testing, inspection and certification (TIC) agencies provide an even more important unbiased assessment, reducing the risk of shipping substandard goods and ensuring worker conditions are safe and ethical, fostering trust between buyers and suppliers. Through meticulous testing, inspections and audits, we can detect defects, verify product authenticity, and ensure safety standards are met.

Consider, for instance, the scenario of a textile factory where workers are treated with respect and provided with safe working conditions. In such an environment, employees are more likely to feel a sense of ownership and pride in their work. This sentiment translates into meticulous attention to detail and a commitment to excellence. Consequently, the products exported from such factories exude quality and reliability, earning the trust and loyalty of consumers. Conversely, in environments where worker safety and well-being are compromised, the repercussions are far-reaching. A disgruntled, insecure or simply unsafe workforce is less likely to deliver products of superior quality. Concerns about health and safety detract from productivity and morale, casting a shadow over the entire manufacturing process. Ultimately, neglecting compliance not only jeopardizes the safety of employees and its consumers, but also undermines the reputation and longevity of a brand.

A quick review of QIMA data from earlier in the year** shows that ethical audits in South Asia, found a consistently high incidence of compliance violations related to working hours and wages, suggesting factories may be relying on unpaid or forced overtime to cope with the surge in order volumes. These trends are especially concerning, combined with the fact that supply chain visibility remains low across the board: The same survey found that only 16 percent of businesses globally were able to name all the suppliers involved in the making of their products.

Reputation is everything. A brand synonymous with safety, quality and ethical practices commands loyalty and trust in the marketplace. By championing transparency and ethical practices, reinforced by a thorough, credible third-party inspection team, textile brands of all sizes can inspire confidence among consumers and stakeholders, positioning themselves as leaders in responsible sourcing.

* https://appliedpsychologydegree.usc.edu/blog/the-importance-of-job-satisfaction-in-todays-workforce

** https://www.qima.com/newsroom/news/news-q2-2024-barometer


Editor’s Note: Pierre-Nicolas Disser is CEO, Consumer Products, QIMA


August 15, 2024

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Seven Deadly Sins of Manufacturing https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2024/08/seven-deadly-sins-of-manufacturing/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 14:38:08 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=97735 By Chris Pinaire, MBA, PMP

The “seven deadly sins of manufacturing,” also known as the seven wastes of lean manufacturing, categorize inefficiencies that can affect a company’s productivity and profitability and a lot more. Some of these sins are obvious, such as flawed inventory management, inconsistent transportation processes, and product defects. Others can be hard to identify and quantify. Either way, every sin creates an unwanted impact on a business.

Learning how to identify and prevent these sins will reduce or eliminate unnecessary waste, improve efficiency and productivity, protect profitability and cash flow, and uphold a company’s reputation. If any of these sins are lurking within a business, here’s how to identify and rectify them.

1. Transportation

Delivering products on time to manufacturing customers is essential for building vendor loyalty. However, waste created by unnecessary movement of raw materials, finished goods, or work in process (WIP) can make it difficult to meet expected shipping dates, leading to increased costs and dissatisfied customers. In addition to wasting fuel and energy costs, excess transportation can also trigger other wastes such as waiting and motion.

Transportation waste often results from poor plant design, such as large distances between operations. It can also be generated by large batch sizes, poorly designed production systems, and multiple storage facilities, as well as inefficient material flows during storage, retrieval, and transfer. To prevent this kind of waste, design a sequential flow from raw materials to finished goods, don’t store WIP in inventory, and maintain consistency and continuity when assigning job priorities.

Value stream mapping (VSM), a lean manufacturing technique for analyzing, designing, and managing the flow of materials through the shop floor, can be very effective in identifying transportation waste. It involves full documentation of all aspects of production flow rather than just mapping specific production processes.

The voice of customer (VOC) can be used in conjunction with VSM to add important information. If the VOC has information critical to success that is not supported in a business’s VSM — for example, the customer says they want delivery in X days, the VSM says the process takes greater than X days — the two documents together can guide the improvement efforts.

2. Inventory

Excess inventory is a form of waste related to the holding costs of raw materials, WIP and finished goods. In addition to driving up inventory costs, this deadly sin ties up capital, takes up space, and allows for inventory to age and obsolete. Excess inventory is a good indicator of other issues within the production process.

Excess material purchasing resulting from poor forecasting and production planning is often caused by a poorly designed link between the procurement department and the manufacturing and scheduling departments of an organization. Due to a lack of visibility and an unknown future, procurement is forced to err on the side of ordering too much material.

Purchasing raw materials only when needed and reducing the need for safety stock will minimize this waste. ERP Inventory software simplifies this process by tracking inventory counts with remarkable accuracy to facilitate the reduction of over- or under- purchasing.
Mobile barcode scanning for inventory receiving and movement can reduce this type of waste by providing high levels of inventory visibility and control. It reduces the need for manual inventory and cycle counts, increasing accuracy of stock on hand. Real-time inventory data improves the performance of forecasting software so purchasers know when to order more stock.

3. Motion

This deadly sin consists of unnecessary movements by employees or machines that don’t add value to the product or service. Common sources of motion waste include poor workstation layout and negligent production planning and process design. Shared equipment and machines, siloed operations, and lack of production standards can be added to this list.

Motion on the shop floor can include reaching for raw materials, walking to get tools or materials, or moving finished goods out of the work area. Redesigning the shop floor to simplify the work will help reduce excess motion. In the office, wasted motion can include searching for files, sifting through spreadsheets or multiple folders to find what is needed, excess mouse clicks, and double data entry. ERP software can jettison a lot of this waste by automating processes to eliminate manual data entry, reduce paper, and simplify purchasing and receiving.

Implementing 5S, a five-step methodology that creates a more organized and productive workspace, can also play a role in minimizing motion waste:

1. Sort — Keep only what you need
2. Set in Order — Keep it organized
3. Shine — Keep it clean
4. Standardize — Keep it the same across workstations
5. Sustain — Keep it consistent over a long-time horizon

4. Waiting

Wasting time waiting for materials, information, equipment, or people is considered a sin because it slows production, increases costs, and adds no value. Furthermore, it can prevent finished goods from being delivered on time — a bigger sin in the minds of customers.

A major source of waiting occurs when production employees don’t know which job to be working on now and what comes up next or have not been provided with the necessary raw materials. ERP software can solve that problem by making the information directly available to machinists without leaving their workcenters and providing the warehouse with a dispatch list of jobs slated to start.

To reduce this waste, use VSM to analyze the total time spent working on jobs from order to shipment and summarize the amount of time where value is not added to the product. Make the process flow as seamless as possible by creating buffers between production steps and create standardized instructions to provide consistency in the method and time required for each step.

Four rules to minimize waiting waste:

1. Automate scheduling so workers always know what to do and when.
2. Design processes to ensure continuous or single piece flow.
3. Have standardized work instructions.
4. Develop multi-skilled workers who can quickly adjust to unexpected work demands.

5. Overproduction

Overproduction occurs when manufacturing the product is required or before it is asked for. Often referred to as the “just in case” sin, manufacturers tend to use overproduction as a backup in the event of unexpected increases in demand. However, it can lead to a rash of problems, from preventing smooth workflow and increased storage costs to hidden defects within WIP. All of which requires additional capital to fund excessive lead times and the production process.

Strategies for terminating overproduction include:

• Use a pull system to control manufacturing capacity.
• Make sure the rate of manufacturing between stations remains even.
• Reduce setup times to facilitate production of small batches or single-piece flow.
• Adjust the production pace to match the rate of customer demand.

A relatively new strategy consists of integrating artificial intelligence (AI) with the ERP system to more accurately forecast product demand based on historical data, market trends, and customer behavior. AI can also predict consumer demand
for individual SKUs using data based on seasonality, pricing, promotions, and product lifecycles.

6. Overprocessing

This waste can be hard to uncover because it often hides in activities that, from the customer’s perspective, don’t add value to a product. Over-processing gets uncovered when customers reject product features, capabilities and services they don’t want or consider excessive. These can range from rework, excessive analysis and over-engineering a solution in a way the customer doesn’t deem necessary or worth the additional cost.
Over-processing in the office typically involves administrative and workflow overkill. Customers see it as unnecessary steps

in the purchasing process, unnecessary signatures on forms or documents, and other forms of red tape. For office personnel it comes in the form of double data entry, unnecessary forms, and extra steps in a workflow.

Putting the brakes on over-processing starts with understanding the work requirements of the customer. This is where specification documents or prototype/first articles can be leveraged to ensure the customer and you are on the same page, especially for new product developments. If things don’t align, make adjustments to the manufacturing process so it syncs with what the customer wants.

Remember:

• Always have the customer in mind before starting production.
• Build a level of quality that meets customer expectations.
• Produce only the quantities needed.

7. Defects

Products that fall short of the manufacturer’s or the customer’s quality requirements certainly qualify as a deadly sin, especially if they get shipped out before the defect is discovered. The cost of the wasted materials, labor time and rework are bad enough. Lost customers and the damage to a company’s reputation can extract a higher price over the long term.

The best way to counteract defects is to identify them as they occur, and implement corrective actions that will prevent them from reoccurring in the future. This is best done with ERP Quality Control software. Start by monitoring completion of every step of the production process through an ERP system. When defects are detected immediately, enter the non-conforming part into the ERP system, halt production, analyze the problem, and outline cause and correction action if necessary.

If there are frequent defects with particular parts, using tools such as a Fishbone Diagram, a visual way to look at cause and effect, can help brainstorm and identify the root cause of the most common faults and why they continue to happen. Then redesign the process so those defects don’t occur and standardize the work to ensure a consistently defect-free manufacturing process.

Anti-defect rules to remember:

• Implement a process protocol that brings consistency to all your manufacturing methods.Never pass defective items along the production process.
• Track non-conformance by vendor, customer, employee, department, and product.
• Always require engineering signoff before deploying a cause and corrective action.

Why waste time creating waste? ERP software can help eliminate waste while you improve processes at the same time.


Editor’s Note: Chris Pinaire, MBA, PMP is the director of New Implementations at Global Shop Solutions.


August 15, 2024

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Boost Credibility With SGS Greenmarks’ “Product Carbon Footprint” And “Carbon Footprint Reduced” Claim Verification https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2024/08/boost-credibility-with-sgs-greenmarks-product-carbon-footprint-and-carbon-footprint-reduced-claim-verification/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 14:26:13 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=97733 TW Special Report

Testing, inspection and certification company SGS has launched two additions to its SGS Green Marks program: Product Carbon Footprint and Carbon Footprint Reduced.

Product Carbon Footprint (PCF) is an essential measurement of greenhouse gas emission and removal within a product’s life cycle. Brands, manufacturers, suppliers and retailers can now benefit from SGS Green Marks that:

  • Ensure PCF information is transparent and generated in compliance with the relevant standards and methodologies;
  • Mitigate the risk of greenwashing or reputational damage;
  • Support the accurate communication of environmental performance to stakeholders;
  • Differentiate a product from competitors; and
  • Provide global recognition that claims are verified by SGS.

For a product to qualify for SGS Green Marks, organizations must first submit a PCF calculation report. SGS then undertakes a rigorous assessment of the PCF following the ISO 14064-3 verification process. This confirms that the PCF was prepared in accordance with either the international standard ISO 14067:2018, or the product standard issued by the Greenhouse Gas Protocol, using a life cycle assessment (LCA) approach.

Each mark provides details of a product’s environmental claim and assessment standard(s) and displays a QR code that links directly to further information on the claim’s authenticity.

Keith Hutchinson, deputyhHead, Connectivity & Products Global Certification at SGS, said: “We are delighted to extend our portfolio of sustainability services to embrace product carbon footprint and provide the market with a credible way to exhibit third-party verified PCF studies.

“Making claims is easy, substantiating them is not. SGS Green Marks enable organizations to demonstrate their product’s environmental attributes. Ultimately, it enables a growing tide of environmentally conscious consumers to be better informed on the impacts of their purchases and to make greener choices.”

SGS Green Marks

SGS Green Marks, developed by SGS experts, now comprise nine individual green attribute certifications or verifications, making this scheme one of the most diverse sets of environmental claim certifications and verifications on the market. The scheme supports businesses and brands striving to enhance their sustainability effort and respond to rising consumer demands for greener products and services.

Based on recognized standards such as ISO/IEC 17065, ISO/IEC 17029, ISO 14065 and ISO 14021, SGS Green Marks verify that products have passed a range of assessments to meet specific and quantifiable environmental attributes and claims under the following nine environmental attributes:

  • Recycled content;
  • Product carbon footprint;
  • Carbon footprint reduced;
  • PFAS-assessed;
  • Biobased;
  • Hazardous substances assessed;
  • PVC-free;
  • Industrial compostable; and
  • Biodegradability­.

Augsut 15, 2024

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Why Fast Access To Fire Gear Can Improve Community Safety https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/nonwovens-technical-textiles/2024/08/why-fast-access-to-fire-gear-can-improve-community-safety/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 14:19:28 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=97731 To best protect communities from the threats of structure fires, local firefighters need access to the right gear. Here’s how new gear programs can help improve rapid response, offer premium protection, and have a positive community impact.

By Lauren Burke DeVere

The right equipment and protective clothing are essential for ensuring the safety, health and effectiveness of firefighters, enabling them to perform their vital roles in protecting lives and property.

But obtaining the necessary gear and equipment when and where it’s needed can often be a challenge for local fire departments throughout America. Financial limitations can mean that departments have to prioritize spending, sometimes at the expense of upgrading or replacing outdated gear. Meanwhile, equipment and protective gear require regular maintenance and periodic replacement to ensure they remain effective and safe. Finally, advancements in firefighting technology can make existing equipment obsolete quickly. Staying current with technological advancements while ensuring compatibility with existing systems isn’t always easy.

These challenges, of course, are paired with the everyday requirement of keeping communities safe. To overcome them, fire departments can avail themselves of new service programs that grant easier, faster access to high-quality bunker gear when you need it most. Here’s how such a program can make an impact.

Minimizing Wait Time, Maximizing Community Impact

One of the biggest hurdles fire departments face in procuring the proper protective equipment is time.

The purchasing process can be somewhat complex and may involve needs assessments, budgeting, wear trials, requests for proposals (RFPs), vendor selection, and finally, purchasing. The process is meant to balance operational needs with budgets, ensuring that fire departments can provide effective services while managing their resources responsibly — but it can be time-consuming. And by the time the final part of that journey is reached, it may yet be weeks before the needed equipment finally arrives.

But emergencies don’t wait for the right time to happen. While this process plays out, fire teams must continue to uphold their commitment to community safety. The longer the wait for new or updated equipment means more time spent fighting fires in outdated or worn-out gear that may not be providing the optimal levels of protection.

With this in mind, on-demand gear delivery services can be helpful, enabling fire departments to more nimbly navigate the purchasing process while obtaining their gear in as little as five business days. And when firefighters are equipped with the right gear, they’re better able to serve and protect their communities.

Indeed, with access to top-of-the-line equipment when it’s needed, firefighters can trust that they will be equipped and ready at a moment’s notice, enhancing their ability to protect and serve their communities effectively while wearing high-quality, durable protective gear.

Premium Protection

Because of the inherent risks of firefighting, proper gear and protective equipment must be up to rigorous standards. And one of the most important of those standards is NFPA 1971.

NFPA 1971 is a standard established by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) that specifies the minimum requirements for protective clothing and equipment for structural and proximity firefighting. NFPA 1971 covers protective ensembles, including coats, pants, helmets, gloves, footwear, and hoods designed for structural and proximity firefighting. It ensures that these items provide adequate protection against hazards encountered during firefighting activities, such as high temperatures, flames and hazardous materials.

In fact, many fire departments and regulatory bodies require compliance with NFPA 1971 as a part of their operational guidelines. Adherence to this standard is often mandatory for purchasing and using firefighting gear.

Firefighters and their departments can trust that gear certified to NFPA 1971 has undergone rigorous testing and meets high safety standards. This trust is crucial for the confidence and morale of firefighters who rely on their gear in life-threatening situations. For these reasons, it’s important when evaluating potential purchases that new gear meets this critical standard.

Convenience You Can Count On

Simplicity and convenience are key when it comes to the operational needs of community fire departments. Because when tasks like ordering and procuring protective equipment are complex, it can take operational resources away from the critical task of firefighting.

Programs that can deliver greater simplicity when it comes to procuring gear, therefore, can help departments maximize their efforts in protecting communities. They’re better able to focus on their job, rather than behind-the-scenes complications that may be inhibiting firefighters’ ability to do their jobs as effectively as possible.

Every second counts when fighting fires. And for departments seeking the right gear, days can make the difference. That’s why Fire-Dex developed the FXR and FXM Express program to ensure that turnaround times for essential turnouts match customers’ urgency. FXR and FXM Express provide fire departments with a stock option for two of Fire-Dex’s most popular lines. It means that bunker gear can arrive in under two weeks when needed, ensuring firefighters have fast, reliable access to essential garments.

No matter the needs or budget, FXR and FXM Express from Fire-Dex offers industry-leading safety, comfort and convenience without the usual wait. Firefighters can trust that they will be equipped and ready at a moment’s notice, enhancing their ability to protect and serve their communities effectively while wearing high-quality, durable protective gear.

For fire departments everywhere, it’s worth investigating these kinds of services. By eliminating the time-consuming, traditional purchase paths for equipment and gear, and by expediting delivery, firefighters will be better equipped to do their jobs safely and effectively.

Editor’s Note: Lauren Burke DeVere is the president of Fire-Dex, a manufacturer of personal protective equipment (PPE) for first responders.

August 15, 2024

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Digital On-Demand Textile Production: All the Benefits Of Offshoring … Onshore https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2024/08/digital-on-demand-textile-production-all-the-benefits-of-offshoring-onshore/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 14:10:06 +0000 https://www.textileworld.com/?p=97729 By Sharon Donovich

For decades, major brands have offshored their manufacturing operations to low-cost, less-regulated developing nations to keep operational expenses low and support healthy profit margins. Air and sea freight could transport goods to all corners of the globe, a “reasonable” amount of waste was tolerated, and demand was predictable.

But this mode of thinking is woefully outdated.

Human ingenuity has wrought a digital marketplace that completely reconceptualizes the supply-and-demand paradigm, standards of living in traditionally third-world manufacturing epicenters have risen, and the call for using innovation to meet global imperatives for ecological sustainability, human rights, and safe, responsible practices is growing.

While the upside of technological development presents its own challenges for manufacturers, the more troubling aspects of financial, logistical, and sociopolitical dynamics between economies are still as problematic for producers as ever.

Consumers may understand these challenges in the abstract, but it is a web-driven economy that has conditioned them to expect instant gratification, unlimited variety, customization, quality, responsible and transparent business practices, and other transactional attributes that only a short time ago were reserved for the wealthy. They expect products that reflect their personalities and values. The internet offers infinite possibilities, and traditional fulfillment models don’t offer a corresponding flexibility to bring those possibilities to one’s doorstep.

While risk mitigation and shrinking time to market may be obvious benefits of bringing operations closer to home, it still leaves other critical concerns — most notably, the question of labor costs, which alongside energy and other core OPEX remain high “at home.” Furthermore, the mechanics of a reshoring project in its own right — hiring and developing new labor forces, resetting supply chains in service of domestic production, building or leasing production facilities, and so on — are considerable.

While a digitized marketplace applies pressure on manufacturers to merge supply chains and fulfillment models, it is digitization itself that promises to make reshoring a simpler, even more profitable proposition for those businesses. It also has the potential to meet the industry’s increasingly stringent mandates and benchmarks for sustainability.

Let’s consider textiles and apparel decoration — and our proposition for scratching the “why offshoring made sense” itch in a way that meets the promise of a web-driven, instant-gratification marketplace while helping both consumer and producer (and designer). With on-demand digital (i.e., inkjet printing) textile decoration, producers can print imagery on a host of fabrics, both natural and synthetic, much the same way we’ve been putting ink to paper for decades. The image is durable, keeping its graphic and hand-feel qualities with exposure to washing, touch, and sunlight. You can replicate nearly any image, including photography, without limitations of color or detail. Printing takes place on any number of pieces — from long-runs/high volume production — down to a single garment, at a low and consistent operating cost. The process is also ideally suited to align with an industry desperately striving for sustainability. That makes it better not just for producers, but for the planet by using significantly less water and energy.

These direct-to-garment or direct-to-fabric print systems require only a single operator, generating a ready-to-ship imprinted piece or material within minutes; the quality meets requirements of some of the world’s most recognized apparel brands, even among the haute couture set. The inks and consumables adhere to the world’s strictest standards for environmental sustainability, and safety for decorating children and baby apparel. The machines use a small fraction of the water and energy associated with traditional methods like screen printing, and it’s easy and fast to train workers to run and maintain them, particularly for a generation that came of age using mobile apps. There’s also no need for specialized skills or deep knowledge of textiles.

Best of all, this technology empowers on-demand production. Because it is pushbutton-quick, producers can sell the product first, and then produce and ship within days or even hours. This cuts inventory risk and generates considerable profit per employee — an ideal formula for scaling businesses upwards. Because the mechanism is digital, management gains transparency (read: accountability) to the complete fulfillment process, from order to shipment. They gain visibility and control across multiple production floors, even different regions. Production systems integrate directly with e-commerce sites, online design applications, and even social media channels, empowering producers to find and capitalize on sudden opportunities and immediate trends by productizing those events and sentiments. On-demand digital printing also significantly streamlines supply chain management — making production faster and less complex.

With sustainable, on-demand digital production, traditional offshore production epicenters cease to be factories vulnerable to floods, tariffs, skirmishes, fires, or stranded inventory; they become new markets for selling products. That’s why we see great promise in the growing global network of digital fulfillers, ready to produce the pieces ordered — in any quantity, to any specification — locally, minimizing the risk, time, and logistics involved in getting such products delivered. Forward-thinking producers are adopting digital decoration capabilities in all corners of the globe, fulfilling demand wherever it’s found — a win for consumers who want options, a win for producers who want profits, and a win for designers who want to sell their creations and grow their brands. It’s even a win for retailers who no longer need to stock physical shelves to sell branded apparel; customers can fulfill e-commerce needs via this interconnected fulfillment network, yielding satisfied buyers who receive their top-quality pieces, made locally, as quickly as they demand them.

On-demand fulfillment models meet the benefits of offshoring without the associated risks, for both major global corporations and family-based entrepreneurs, many of whom cite “bringing jobs back home” as a key reason for their endeavor. For many, a digitized world presents a challenge to be solved.

For those building fulfillment strategies around onshore and localized on-demand production, a digitized world means tapping new markets and growing in years to come. Achieving the benefits that offshoring operations once promised … right here at home.


Editor’s Note: Sharon Donovich is a director at Kornit Digital


August 15, 2024

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